NewburyportNews.com, Newburyport, MA

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September 25, 2013

Apple treat takes advantage of autumn's bounty

It’s apple season again, one of the few times of the year I’m sorry I live in the city, without a car. If only I lived near an orchard, I’d pick my own apples and be happy.

I console myself with the varieties now gracing the city’s farmers markets. It used to be that we’d have to be content with a strictly limited roster: Red Delicious, Golden Delicious, Granny Smith and Macintosh. The end. These days, thanks to adventurous farmers and the resurgence of all kinds of apple varieties, there’s a ton of exciting choices.

This abundance practically begs you to assemble the filling for this baked apple treat from a mix of different apples rather than from a single type. Just be sure to taste the candidates before you start cooking to get a fix on what each one will bring to the table. Is it honey-like? Puckery-tart? Intense? Wine-y? Once you know, you can compose your own lineup.

Actually, if by chance you have a little extra time, you should try cooking each variety separately, then tasting it, because the taste and texture of a given apple can change significantly when cooked.

I added dried apricots to the apples for contrast. I love the tartness of dried apricots, particularly California apricots. Turkish apricots, the other choice, are quite sweet, not as bright and sunny. Or, if you’d prefer some other kind of dried fruit — cherries, raisins, cranberries or dried plums (otherwise known as prunes) — swap out the apricots for your favorite.

The only other flavors in the filling are sugar and lemon juice. You may need to adjust the amounts of these two ingredients slightly depending on the sweetness of the apples.

This kind of dessert — baked fruit with some kind of crust — happens to be my favorite. But crusts can be tricky, particularly pie dough. So this recipe is for the pastry-impaired. Instead of pie dough, we use French toast. Everyone can make French toast, even little kids.

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