NewburyportNews.com, Newburyport, MA

PortWatch

April 10, 2013

Egg-cellent!

Whether for brunch or two at your table, it's a favorite

You can fry them, shir them, scramble or roll them up. Is there a more versatile food at your fingertips? It’s that incredible egg, long on the upswing after its battering on the health front.

But everyday eggs can be so, well, everyday, always pleasant and comforting, with a predictability and demeanor that might as well whisper, “It’s time to wake up.”

But when morning takes on grander importance, for those celebrations with guests around the table, the egg can be dressed up.

Consider the roulade, a curlicue of egg, cheese and vegetables. Made from a batter that cooks in a jellyroll pan, the eggs become nearly as firm as a crepe. Or think simple but dressed up, on the order of scrambled eggs on bruschetta. Then there’s the shirred egg, an everyday kind of dish that’s turned on its head when cooked with cream and lemon and anything else you might want to add.

Whatever the option, morning couldn’t taste better.

EGG ROULADE

Serves 6 to 7

Note: This calls for a 10- by 15-inch jellyroll pan (a baking sheet with edges). If you have a different size, just shape the batter on the pan accordingly.

5 tablespoons butter

6 tablespoons. flour

1 1/4 cups milk

4 eggs, separated

Freshly ground black pepper

Filling (see below)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line the 10- by 15-inch jellyroll pan with parchment paper; either butter or spray it with cooking oil.

Melt butter in a medium saucepan. Add the flour and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Increase heat to high, whisk in the milk and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring often.

Transfer flour mixture to a large bowl. Whisk in the egg yolks one at a time. Season with pepper.

Beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Stir a third of the whites into yolk mixture and fold in the rest.

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