NewburyportNews.com, Newburyport, MA

PortWatch

April 30, 2014

Cult brands showing proof of renaissance

Hoping to get your hands on a bottle of Pappy Van Winkle 23-year-old bourbon? Hope on.

The wildly popular ultra-premium bourbon is legendarily difficult to find, and when it is spotted — there’s even a Pappy Tracker app for that — it’s quickly sold out.

And Pappy isn’t the only super-sought-after spirit. Other elusive bourbon brands include the 17-year-old iteration of Eagle Rare, William Larue Weller, Stagg Jr. and Angel’s Envy Cask Strength, all part of a bourbon renaissance that has seen a new appreciation of American whiskey, as well as the birth of a whole new class of cult spirits.

“It seems like that quality and variety and handcrafted story is finally starting to be appreciated,” says Kris Comstock, bourbon marketing director for the Buffalo Trace Distillery, which sells the Stagg and Weller brands. Buffalo Trace also produces Pappy Van Winkle in association with the Van Winkle family.

Jess Novak, drink editor at The Daily Meal website, credits the rise of cult bourbons to the overall trend of eating and drinking better, along with the nostalgia-driven interest in creating handcrafted products.

“Bourbon really feels like it hails from our grandfather’s or great-grandfather’s era. It’s something you have to learn how to drink, and it’s deeply American,” she says. “It’s the kind of thing you drink when you’re making your own footstool. So, there’s these small-batch, cult bourbons. They’re crafted, they have this focus and warmth that comes through in the taste.”

And producers are looking for new ways to impart that handcrafted flourish. Hard-to-find Jefferson’s Ocean, for instance, was aged in barrels at sea.

“The bourbon takes on many interesting flavors on its voyage that it could never pick up by maturing the way other premium bourbons do,” says Jefferson’s founder, Trey Zoeller.

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