Was it just 388 years ago that the Plymouth Colonists and Wampanoag Indians shared an autumn harvest feast that today is acknowledged as one of the first Thanksgiving celebrations in the Colonies.

The historical record notes that those festivities in 1621 lasted three days. The Pilgrims knew how to throw a party, but what type of libations do you think they consumed? Bordeaux and burgundies followed by a port or sherry?

According to many historians, the answer is — water. In their first year, the English Colonists had grown a few acres of barley, so it is possible that some beer or ale may have been brewed by the end of harvest time — but given how long it takes to brew and ferment beer, this seems unlikely. Wine was mentioned in later accounts of supplies to the Colonies. By the mid-1600s, cider would become the main beverage of New Englanders, but in 1621 Plymouth, there were not any apples in America yet.

Good grief, three days of feasting and no wine ...

The only good thing about that situation is that they didn't have to confront the quandary many of us have in preparing for the Thanksgiving meal: How do you select a wine that will match the myriad of flavors and textures this holiday meal offers? The bad news is that there is no perfect wine. The good news is that there are many different varietals that are outstanding choices. Here are my recommendations:

Champagne

Champagne brings both elegance and phenomenal food-pairing versatility to virtually any meal, but with Thanksgiving, these wines really shine as an aperitif at the start of the meal all the way to a pecan pie finish. In these cost-conscious times, don't let the Champagne price tags get you down. There are wonderful proseccos, cavas and sparklers that are stunners, and much less expensive.

White wines

Riesling: A white wine that may either be bone dry or fairly sweet, excellent with any dishes that are spicy, salty or sweet. Whether from Alsace, Germany or Washington, rieslings are a top-pick white wine for pairing with Thanksgiving dinner. Its flavors of apple, apricot and honey and its clarifying acidity give it a significant pairing edge with the likes of sweet potatoes, turkey meat and spice-laden or herb-filled stuffing.

Gewúrztraminer: This white wine tends to have the aromatic gusto and spicy palate appeal that gives it a solid standing with turkey and gravy, bringing out the best in both. Gewúrztraminer offers a delicious white wine option for Thanksgiving day.

Pinot gris: Capable of handling garlic and onions, herbs and rich, flavorful, high-fat dishes, this white wine is a natural for the demands of Thanksgiving. This varietal typically has floral aromas with apple, pear and honeysuckle flavors.

VMR Viognier/Rousanne/Marsanne: This is the trio of grapes from the Rhone Valley that can pair nicely with Thanksgiving fare. These off-the-beaten path varietals will make the meal that much more interesting.

Rosé: A serious full-bodied, drier-style wine, rosé is one of the most versatile wines to pair with virtually any part of the Thanksgiving feast.

Red wine

Pinot noir: This red wine is a traditional favorite for Thanksgiving. Its subtle, earthy undertones and often mushroom-inspired flavors surround the fruit features of the wine and tend to show well with the traditional flavors of turkey and stuffing.

Zinfandel: A fuller-bodied red wine, zinfandels up the intensity from a pinot noir, but still maintain a balancing effect on many traditional Thanksgiving side dishes. This would be a great wine pick for those looking for a heartier red wine with the capacity to accommodate spicy, bitter and sweet flavor profiles.

Syrah/shiraz: The Syrah grape can bring a spicy edge or a meaty character to the table, often increasing the complexity, while graciously handling the cornucopia of flavors in a traditional Thanksgiving meal. The prevalent peppery notes of Syrah will partner well with the herb-infused stuffing and both the white and dark turkey meat.

Beaujolais nouveau: A light, fruity red wine, from the gamay grape, that goes quite well with turkey and all of the fixings. This wine is released from France on the third Thursday of November, just in time to highlight your Thanksgiving feast.

My all-time favorite Thanksgiving wine is pinot meunier. This is a blending grape used to make champagne. It is a cousin of the pinot noir grape and shares many of the same characteristics, such as cherry and currant nuances. The main difference is that pinot meunier has a spicy, almost cardamom finish that complements the Thanksgiving dinner beautifully. Domaine Chandon of California produces one that is always on my Thanksgiving table.

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Todd Baltich is the owner of Leary's Fine Wines in Newburyport. He can be contacted at Todd@learysfinewines.com with any questions or comments.